We don't. It was around 28 Celsius today. Still. Muggy. Bletch.
Good thing we didn't have anything strenuous planned for our last day. A lazy morning followed by lunch at the four star with the amazing view. The walk there nearly did us in. Totally in the mid-day sun and uphill. To top it off, the restaurant with the view was closed!!!
However, they did have an option which was right at water level and almost as good but hot because it was outside. It certainly had that Mediterranean feel. The only problem was about 100 stairs down and then back up (with a full stomach).
We had a typical Ligurian fish fry. Bass, Swordfish, turbot, scampi with grilled veg and local wine.
The walk back was brutal requiring a two hour nap to recuperate.
In the evening we went for a goodbye stroll, organized a taxi for tomorrow and finished off with a gelato around the corner from our apartment.
Tuesday, 16 May 2017
Monday, 15 May 2017
May 15 - Fifth Day in SML - M.T.E. Strikes again
"Ha Ha Ha", he chortled. "I've really outdone myself this time. I've managed to confuse even an intelligent young local AND get him to put some loathsome tourists on the wrong train. I'm going to be famous. I'll be promoted to COO in no time. I'd better call my wife and tell her to go shopping for some new dresses for when we go to dinner with the president."
The minor Trenitalia employee had struck again! He managed to make even a local look like a fool. We had asked this nice young man with a delicious Italian accent which train to catch for the next Cinque Terra town (Manarola) and he had said the same one he was getting on. Imagine his shock as Manarola went whizzing by at 100 kilometres per hour. At that point we asked ourselves where is this train going then? As luck would have it, we just went straight back to SML.
Our plan was to go to Riomaggiore, the town farthest away and then to Manarola before returning home. That would have made our Cinque Terre exploration complete but alas, it was not to be. We did however see Riomaggiore today which was as spectacular as Vernazza but in a completely different way. Its' harbour was much smaller. Its' buildings were stacked even more vertically on top of each other, something which seems impossible as you look at them, and it had an "upper town" above the train tracks, which Vernazza did not. According to Rick Steves, we have seen two out of three of the prettiest towns here so not too bad.
After we got home we had our standard 90 minute nap and then out to hunt for sandals for Carol. No luck. No luck either trying to phone the TD bank at a public phone or using my phone BUT when we chose a restaurant for dinner we asked the server if she could help and like all true Italians, she got others involved and soon everyone was trying so hard to get that call through. No luck until an old cell phone was found in the restaurant which finally got me through. It turns out that there are two limits on debit card withdrawals: a daily limit which I knew about and did not exceed AND a weekly limit which I had reached. That's why I could not get any more money out. The bank adjusted both limits so I am now good to go and do not have to go begging on the streets.
In the meantime we had the best meal so far on our trip in that restaurant. Three pieces of ravioli stuffed with cheese for starters, slow cooked salmon and grilled veg, for the mains, a nice wine, and panna cotta with salted caramel for dessert. Espresso and limoncello to finish. Super yummy. Ciao!
The minor Trenitalia employee had struck again! He managed to make even a local look like a fool. We had asked this nice young man with a delicious Italian accent which train to catch for the next Cinque Terra town (Manarola) and he had said the same one he was getting on. Imagine his shock as Manarola went whizzing by at 100 kilometres per hour. At that point we asked ourselves where is this train going then? As luck would have it, we just went straight back to SML.
Our plan was to go to Riomaggiore, the town farthest away and then to Manarola before returning home. That would have made our Cinque Terre exploration complete but alas, it was not to be. We did however see Riomaggiore today which was as spectacular as Vernazza but in a completely different way. Its' harbour was much smaller. Its' buildings were stacked even more vertically on top of each other, something which seems impossible as you look at them, and it had an "upper town" above the train tracks, which Vernazza did not. According to Rick Steves, we have seen two out of three of the prettiest towns here so not too bad.
After we got home we had our standard 90 minute nap and then out to hunt for sandals for Carol. No luck. No luck either trying to phone the TD bank at a public phone or using my phone BUT when we chose a restaurant for dinner we asked the server if she could help and like all true Italians, she got others involved and soon everyone was trying so hard to get that call through. No luck until an old cell phone was found in the restaurant which finally got me through. It turns out that there are two limits on debit card withdrawals: a daily limit which I knew about and did not exceed AND a weekly limit which I had reached. That's why I could not get any more money out. The bank adjusted both limits so I am now good to go and do not have to go begging on the streets.
In the meantime we had the best meal so far on our trip in that restaurant. Three pieces of ravioli stuffed with cheese for starters, slow cooked salmon and grilled veg, for the mains, a nice wine, and panna cotta with salted caramel for dessert. Espresso and limoncello to finish. Super yummy. Ciao!
Sunday, 14 May 2017
May 14 - Fourth Day in SML - Amalfi Coast Redux
Today was Portofino day. We went by bus and the road from SML to there is just like the road down the Amalfi coast. Narrow, windy, often one way at tight bends. Cars having to back up when we came along cause there just isn't enough road width to accommodate both sometimes. The only difference was that here we weren't too far above the water. Also, the bus was full to the gunwales, standing room only, everyone swaying to the rhythm of the bus. It was fun but we were glad it only lasted 20 minutes.
Portofino is another magical place. Much smaller than Vernazza and way more upscale but the same beautiful Italian coastal village feel. Two years ago we were here for two hours, today five and we believe we saw it well. Lunch was on the edge of the harbour, a mix of local fried fish, grilled veg and potatoes. Very tasty and healthy. Some bigwigs were in town having come in on their multi million dollar yachts which were parked right there. Very posh.
We returned to SML by ferry, a neat alternative to the bus cause you see all of the coast from the water and quicker too, only fifteen minutes.
Back in SML we ran into a couple from NYC (an apartment on Fifth Ave no less) who were here for a month and were thinking of renting a place here for a year, using it three or four times and then letting their friends use it when they weren't there. We signed up to be their friends right away!
The weather tonight is very pleasant but just chilly enough that we can't sit out on our balcony for too long. We'll bundle up and go for a stroll in our 'hood soon and tomorrow we have to call TD bank back home cause we can't seem to withdraw any money from the ATM's any more. Weird. Ciao!
Portofino is another magical place. Much smaller than Vernazza and way more upscale but the same beautiful Italian coastal village feel. Two years ago we were here for two hours, today five and we believe we saw it well. Lunch was on the edge of the harbour, a mix of local fried fish, grilled veg and potatoes. Very tasty and healthy. Some bigwigs were in town having come in on their multi million dollar yachts which were parked right there. Very posh.
We returned to SML by ferry, a neat alternative to the bus cause you see all of the coast from the water and quicker too, only fifteen minutes.
Back in SML we ran into a couple from NYC (an apartment on Fifth Ave no less) who were here for a month and were thinking of renting a place here for a year, using it three or four times and then letting their friends use it when they weren't there. We signed up to be their friends right away!
The weather tonight is very pleasant but just chilly enough that we can't sit out on our balcony for too long. We'll bundle up and go for a stroll in our 'hood soon and tomorrow we have to call TD bank back home cause we can't seem to withdraw any money from the ATM's any more. Weird. Ciao!
Saturday, 13 May 2017
May 13 - Third Day in SML - 34 Ferraris
Last night we went for a walk to the harbour to see the time for the boat to Cinque Terre. 0830. Forget it. We're going by train. Every half hour and free because of our Eurail pass. Then we thought, why don't we walk over to the only 5 star hotel hereabouts and check out their lobby. Well, apart from splendid and fabulous, it turns out that a Ferrari owner's touring group is stopping here and staying there. There were 34 of the most beautiful cars on the planet in the parking lot all lined up in a row. That ostentatious display of wealth put Monte Carlo to shame. A sight we'll never experience again. Once I ran out of drool, Carol took me to the next hotel, only a 4 star, with the most amazing view over SML. We took a card so we can call for reservations because we knew we had to go there for dinner before we leave. The best part was the meals seemed reasonably priced for this area. Entrees in the 30 - 35 euro range. We'll report on that when it happens.
I'm a minor Trenitalia employee. I'm straight out of train school and I'm in charge of developing train schedules for local lines. Sort of "training" on the fly. My schedules are wondrously unintelligible and change on a whim. Local employees are told not to tell passengers anything and to only answer direct questions and do so with a sullen glare. Trains are purposely left unidentifiable so that only locals know what has just come in and where it is going next. I'm confident my brilliant ideas will soon get me promoted to COO so I can do this to the inter city lines.
That sort of describes how we got to Vernazza. A trip that should have taken 45 minutes on one train took us two hours on two trains with a one hour layover in god knows where munching on a dried panini.
I feel better now.
Vernazza is beyond amazing. We have never seen anything like it before. the way it is tucked into this tiny fold in the hillside with houses of all colours growing organically and higgledy piggledy out of the rock, leaning against each other and intertwined in all directions, all of it guiding visitors to a magnificent small piazza right at the water's edge. The water thrusts against the breakwater in the harbour and soaks all of the unwary. In the middle of all this we found a great little restaurant and had a Vernazzan specialty, layers of scalloped potatoes, anchovies, tomatoes all cooked together with parsley, basil and rosemary and olive oil of course. Absolutely scrumptious. Profiteroles and espresso finished off a perfect lunch.
The trip home was uneventful because we had learned by this time to ask fellow travellers who gladly put us on the right train. 40 minutes, boom, we were home, completely exhausted but smiling.
I'm a minor Trenitalia employee. I'm straight out of train school and I'm in charge of developing train schedules for local lines. Sort of "training" on the fly. My schedules are wondrously unintelligible and change on a whim. Local employees are told not to tell passengers anything and to only answer direct questions and do so with a sullen glare. Trains are purposely left unidentifiable so that only locals know what has just come in and where it is going next. I'm confident my brilliant ideas will soon get me promoted to COO so I can do this to the inter city lines.
That sort of describes how we got to Vernazza. A trip that should have taken 45 minutes on one train took us two hours on two trains with a one hour layover in god knows where munching on a dried panini.
I feel better now.
Vernazza is beyond amazing. We have never seen anything like it before. the way it is tucked into this tiny fold in the hillside with houses of all colours growing organically and higgledy piggledy out of the rock, leaning against each other and intertwined in all directions, all of it guiding visitors to a magnificent small piazza right at the water's edge. The water thrusts against the breakwater in the harbour and soaks all of the unwary. In the middle of all this we found a great little restaurant and had a Vernazzan specialty, layers of scalloped potatoes, anchovies, tomatoes all cooked together with parsley, basil and rosemary and olive oil of course. Absolutely scrumptious. Profiteroles and espresso finished off a perfect lunch.
The trip home was uneventful because we had learned by this time to ask fellow travellers who gladly put us on the right train. 40 minutes, boom, we were home, completely exhausted but smiling.
Friday, 12 May 2017
May 12 - Second Day in Sta. M.L. - Twisted Bodies
The nights are getting better. Either our bodies are learning to conform to the foam beds or the drugs Carol is taking (antihistamine, Motrin, milk of magnesia) numbs her body enough that it doesn't care any more, but we are getting the sleep we need. It's weird but Carol's allergies are kicking up a storm (that's the reason we had to get an antihistamine from the drugstore). There must be something exotic floating around here that she's breathing in.
Anyway, we just finished breakfast on our balcony. I got americanos and the best croissants we've ever tasted from the local cafe/bakery. The lady there is sweet. She remembers me and can rattle off our order as soon as I walk in the door. I'm writing this on the balcony now while Carol is showering, etc. The day looks promising. Partly cloudy, nice breeze, not hot at all. I can see breakers on the waves out to sea (the Ligurian sea). Eat your hearts out back in Vancouver!
We went for a walk up a local hill to a place called Villa Durazzo, a palace overlooking Sta. M.L. Which has great views and a phenomenal garden. We could see our own balcony through the trees once we got there. After a good look around we headed back down via the seaside promenade and found this great restaurant nestled against the hillside looking out at the water. Had breaded veal cutlet, fries, wine, grilled veg and espresso. We sat at an exposed table and half way through the meal it started raining so a mad dash undercover to continue the meal with everyone carrying plates of food and glasses of wine. Our waiter reminded us of a character out of Seinfeld. Equal parts efficiency, inefficiency and fun. We got along great until we asked for some milk for our espressos. One does not do that in Italy. Alas, the budding relationship was FINITO.
If the weather cooperates, it's off to a Super Cinque Terre tour by boat tomorrow.
Anyway, we just finished breakfast on our balcony. I got americanos and the best croissants we've ever tasted from the local cafe/bakery. The lady there is sweet. She remembers me and can rattle off our order as soon as I walk in the door. I'm writing this on the balcony now while Carol is showering, etc. The day looks promising. Partly cloudy, nice breeze, not hot at all. I can see breakers on the waves out to sea (the Ligurian sea). Eat your hearts out back in Vancouver!
We went for a walk up a local hill to a place called Villa Durazzo, a palace overlooking Sta. M.L. Which has great views and a phenomenal garden. We could see our own balcony through the trees once we got there. After a good look around we headed back down via the seaside promenade and found this great restaurant nestled against the hillside looking out at the water. Had breaded veal cutlet, fries, wine, grilled veg and espresso. We sat at an exposed table and half way through the meal it started raining so a mad dash undercover to continue the meal with everyone carrying plates of food and glasses of wine. Our waiter reminded us of a character out of Seinfeld. Equal parts efficiency, inefficiency and fun. We got along great until we asked for some milk for our espressos. One does not do that in Italy. Alas, the budding relationship was FINITO.
If the weather cooperates, it's off to a Super Cinque Terre tour by boat tomorrow.
Thursday, 11 May 2017
May 11 - First Day in Sta. M. L. - What a Night
The beds and pillows are made from this cheap latex foam. IMPOSSIBLE to get comfortable. We tossed and turned for hours but finally fell into a stupor cause we were so tired. No sooner had we done that than Carol sat bolt upright and said there's someone in the room. (Ghosts?). Talk about spine tingling! Of course there wasn't but we sure didn't get back to sleep for quite a while. Eventually morning came and despite everything we realized we couldn't afford to leave and find something better because the apartment fee was non-refundable by this time. So we decided our minimum needs in order to stay, were an electric kettle and two mugs for the mornings, which I went out and bought and a good Americano with pastries NOW to get our blood moving. Done and done. Next we took advantage of the washing machine and did three loads of laundry which we hung out to dry on the balcony just like the locals. I spent some time reading Rick Steves and found that our apartment is right in the centre of the action here. In fact, many of his recommendations for hotels, restaurants, shops, churches and walks are right around us. We are in Sta. M.L.'s main pedestrian zone, very reminiscent of my apartment in Nice Old Town when I was on my mystery trip. The apartment in fact has that same rundown neglected feel.
We had a nice outing this afternoon down to the waterfront which is closer that we thought. Yesterday we went there the long way. Today we stumbled on a shortcut which means the beach is just around the corner, literally. Sat on a bench warmed by the sun and watched the world go by (mostly German tourists). We also went to a local pizzeria recommended by Rick Steves. Probably on a par with Naples. Delicious. Our 'hood is really growing on us. Has a local feel. Some tourists sure but lots of friendly locals.
We had a nice outing this afternoon down to the waterfront which is closer that we thought. Yesterday we went there the long way. Today we stumbled on a shortcut which means the beach is just around the corner, literally. Sat on a bench warmed by the sun and watched the world go by (mostly German tourists). We also went to a local pizzeria recommended by Rick Steves. Probably on a par with Naples. Delicious. Our 'hood is really growing on us. Has a local feel. Some tourists sure but lots of friendly locals.
Wednesday, 10 May 2017
May 10 - Going to Santa Margherita
This morning we left Rome. Sad but ready for a less hectic pace. Getting to the station and onto our train was easy peasy. We had heard and read so much about crowds, pickpockets (the police arrest 100 a week) and porter scams that we were worried about having to confront something nasty but none of that was there. The trip was four and a half hours. Very smooth and comfortable. We snoozed and ate the cranky sisters goodies and snoozed and ate some more. A pleasant way to travel. The drive to the apartment was beautiful, along the Ligurian coast, just like two years ago when we passed through here on our way to Portofino.
The apartment is a curious mix. Great location and wonderful view from the balcony but weird in other ways: no mugs for coffee. Gotta buy our own tomorrow so Carol can have her morning cuppa. Also Carol is convinced her bed was never made up. No sheets. Just a comforter and shams. There are sheets in the cupboard so are we expected to make our own beds? Also tomorrow we are expected to scramble to get the money to pay for this place. No cards - only cash. Might have to do it over two, three days if the bank won't give it to me all in the same day. Maybe an email earlier on told us but I don't remember.
We had a nice dinner here though. Right at the harbour. Ravioli with shrimp and a side of grilled veg.
So all is not lost. More tomorrow as we learn to cope with this place. Ciao!
The apartment is a curious mix. Great location and wonderful view from the balcony but weird in other ways: no mugs for coffee. Gotta buy our own tomorrow so Carol can have her morning cuppa. Also Carol is convinced her bed was never made up. No sheets. Just a comforter and shams. There are sheets in the cupboard so are we expected to make our own beds? Also tomorrow we are expected to scramble to get the money to pay for this place. No cards - only cash. Might have to do it over two, three days if the bank won't give it to me all in the same day. Maybe an email earlier on told us but I don't remember.
We had a nice dinner here though. Right at the harbour. Ravioli with shrimp and a side of grilled veg.
So all is not lost. More tomorrow as we learn to cope with this place. Ciao!
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